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The Validation of Artificial Ageing Methods for Silk Textiles Using Markers for Chemical and Physical Properties of Seventeenth-Century Silk
KTH, School of Chemical Science and Engineering (CHE), Fibre and Polymer Technology, Polymeric Materials.ORCID iD: 0000-0003-3572-7798
KTH, School of Chemical Science and Engineering (CHE), Fibre and Polymer Technology, Polymeric Materials.ORCID iD: 0000-0002-5394-7850
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2010 (English)In: Studies in Conservation, ISSN 0039-3630, Vol. 55, no 1, 55-65 p.Article in journal (Refereed) Published
Abstract [en]

The Royal Armoury in Stockholm has conducted a project to experimentally evaluate conservation methods used for historic costumes. As the historic value of authentic artefacts precludes their use in experimental work, artificially aged standard silk needs to be used as a substitute. This study aimed to find a suitable artificial ageing method for standard silk resulting in a degradation state that simulated that of silk from seventeenth-century costumes. Four artificial ageing methods were studied: (1) thermal oxidation it, dry air, (2) exposure to different relative humidity (RH), (3) immersion in solutions of varied pH, (4) accelerated ultraviolet (UV) exposure at 50 +/- 2 degrees C, 95% RH. Different chemical and physical properties for silk were evaluated using Fourier transform infrared spectroscopy, size exclusion chromatography and tensile tests, which were employed as analytical indicators for comparison between the artificially aged silk and samples front seventeenth-century costumes. Of the ageing methods tested in this study, thermo-oxidation at 125 degrees C in dry air for 28-56 days produced silk with properties most like those of-historic silk samples.

Place, publisher, year, edition, pages
2010. Vol. 55, no 1, 55-65 p.
Keyword [en]
spectroscopy
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Chemical Sciences
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URN: urn:nbn:se:kth:diva-19395ISI: 000276621000006Scopus ID: 2-s2.0-77951523563OAI: oai:DiVA.org:kth-19395DiVA: diva2:337442
Note
QC 20100525Available from: 2010-08-05 Created: 2010-08-05 Last updated: 2011-01-14Bibliographically approved

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Vilaplana, FranciscoKarlsson, Sigbritt

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