Independent thesis Advanced level (degree of Master (Two Years)), 20 credits / 30 HE credits
Since 1990, the global cosmetic market is in constant growth with the constant discovery of new needs and the increasing expectations of customers. Cosmetics are used a lot in developed countries, but also more and more in developing countries.Thus, cosmetics companies have to be reactive and develop more and more products (which can be creams, lotions, serums, masks, milks etc…) to be competitive but they also have to follow the rules in terms of ingredients allowance and dosage.
In broad strokes, for the R&D team, the development of a cosmetic product consists of sourcing the raw materials, working on the formulation, drawing up the production protocol, and carrying out different tests on the product. Every step is precisely planned in order to be on time for the launching date. All the orders, R&D, production, and marketing steps have to be taken into account for each project planning and delays have to be anticipated. However, sometimes, risks are taken in order to save time and money. Formulation is the key step of a product development. Indeed, in this step, the product becomes real. The texture is chosen, which means that the sense of touch that we want to create while taking the product out of its package and while applying on the skin is defined and then created. Furthermore, the rich or light effect of a cream (more “greasy” or more “water-like”), the penetration of the product into the skin, the slippery effect of its application, and the sense of touch on the skin after application are other parameters that are carefully studied in order to find the best texture for the product Then, industrial transposition is another key point in a product development since it allows the formulation to be scaled-up to an industrial production. Consequently, the R&D team has a very interesting work to do but also has to face problems which can happen at each step of the product development or even after its launching on the market. This can lead to a reformulation work. This situation also occurs when rules about cosmetics ingredients change or when a company wants to expand into a country with stricter regulations.
I carried out my Master thesis for six months in cosmetic formulation in Biologique Recherche, a high-class cosmetics company located in Suresnes, a suburb of Paris. I took part in different reformulation works and in new products formulations, with a main project on developing a new whitening cream and a new whitening serum. I made bibliographic research, worked on finding appropriate and stable formulations, had to face some problems during this, and I worked on industrial transpositions.Finally, I could work with other departments in the company, such as the Quality and Marketing departments as well as the Production team and I could see the importance of good manufacturing practices, traceability, and safety of goods and people within a cosmetics production laboratory.
2011. , 43 p.