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Analytical markers for silk degradation: comparing historic silk and silk artificially aged in different environments
KTH, School of Biotechnology (BIO), Glycoscience. KTH, School of Chemical Science and Engineering (CHE), Fibre and Polymer Technology.ORCID iD: 0000-0003-3572-7798
KTH, School of Chemical Science and Engineering (CHE), Fibre and Polymer Technology. University of Skövde, Sweden .ORCID iD: 0000-0002-5394-7850
2015 (English)In: Analytical and Bioanalytical Chemistry, ISSN 1618-2642, E-ISSN 1618-2650, Vol. 407, no 5, 1433-1449 p.Article in journal (Refereed) Published
Abstract [en]

Suitable analytical markers to assess the degree of degradation of historic silk textiles at molecular and macroscopic levels have been identified and compared with silk textiles aged artificially in different environments, namely (i) ultraviolet (UV) exposure, (ii) thermo-oxidation, (iii) controlled humidity and (iv) pH. The changes at the molecular level in the amino acid composition, the formation of oxidative moieties, crystallinity and molecular weight correlate well with the changes in the macroscopic properties such as brightness, pH and mechanical properties. These analytical markers are useful to understand the degradation mechanisms that silk textiles undergo under different degradation environments, involving oxidation processes, hydrolysis, chain scission and physical arrangements. Thermo-oxidation at high temperatures proves to be the accelerated ageing procedure producing silk samples that most resembled the degree of degradation of early seventeenth-century silk. These analytical markers will be valuable to support the textile conservation tasks currently being performed in museums to preserve our heritage.

Place, publisher, year, edition, pages
2015. Vol. 407, no 5, 1433-1449 p.
Keyword [en]
Silk, Conservation, Multivariate analysis, Amino acid composition, Infrared spectroscopy, Mechanical properties
National Category
Chemical Sciences
URN: urn:nbn:se:kth:diva-161108DOI: 10.1007/s00216-014-8361-zISI: 000349336400015PubMedID: 25492090OAI: diva2:797451
Knut and Alice Wallenberg Foundation

QC 20150324

Available from: 2015-03-24 Created: 2015-03-09 Last updated: 2015-03-24Bibliographically approved

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